Mumbai - the slum, the opportunities, the people

Mumbai is known as the city of dreams. Thousands of people from all around India flock here every day to seek work and other opportunities. It is impossible to experience the scope of Mumbai within the space of one week, but these are the parts that stood out to me.

Dharavi - the poor little rich slum 

Dharavi is Asia's largest slum with a population that isn't exactly known, but is said to be in the region of 1 million. To give a few more statistics, it is about half the size of Centre Parcs and one bedroom is normally home to around 8 people. But what is the true meaning of a slum? Well, the blockbuster hit Slumdog Millionaire would be my first thought. The vivid scene of a child jumping into to a pile of excrete sets the tone for what a slum would be like - I definitely had no high expectations. 

When we actually arrived at Dharavi I was a bit confused as to whether we had actually entered the ‘slum’ yet. Mainly because there were busy roads surrounding us and common middle class people walking around. We soon arrived at the industrial part of Dharavi, which is where the majority of employment and workforce is held. There were all types of manufacturing and recycling industries from aluminium sorting to leather production. As we walked around the people carried on with their daily work without even acknowledging us. We occasionally got a wave and a smile, but it goes to show these people are only in Dharavi for one thing - to earn a living for themselves. This was when I realised the significance of this slum to a lot of people, and the reason why thousands come to Dharavi every day for work.

The residential part is where the shift happened. The area became a lot more cramped with barely a metre of space between slum houses. The smell that surrounded me proved just how low the hygiene standards were. That's no surprise considering 1 toilet must be shared between 1440 people. Yet as I peeked into the houses and looked at the children running around, they seemed happy. A lot of the houses had electricity and TV's, but basic sanitation was a myth.

Later that evening we had a panel consisting of 5 slum residents. Most of them were born and raised in Dharavi and knew the place only as their home. They ranted about how the government gives them empty promises year after year; saying they'll build more toilets and create cleaner living conditions. It's all rubbish. The Indian government are more concerned with spending millions of dollars on space missions rather than the millions in poverty.

A few more snaps 

Playing hold

Leopold Cafe

Dhobi Ghat - outdoor laundry

Even after spending just one week in Mumbai it seems to be a place I’m incredibly comfortable in. The people do not stare at you like you’re a different breed of human. They welcome you and have friendly conversations if you wish to engage in them. I could definitely see myself living here for a year or two. 

Namaste, Damini 

Delhi at first glance

Delhi - the capital of reemerging India. Over the last 3 days I’ve been exploring this rapidly growing city for the first time along with 150 students as part of the Study India programme. A standard group of backpackers you may be thinking? Yet our first three days have been an incredibly intense schedule of cultural immersion, music and debates.

I arrived at Delhi jet-lagged, running on pure adrenaline and excitement. Being my first time in India, I kept an open mind despite the recent uproar about Delhi in the media. The first thing I noticed was the shear amount of people on the streets. Everywhere you look there’s a man sleeping on the floor or a child searching for empty water bottles. Of course, it was a culture shock. 

Lotus Temple

At our hotel in Greater Kailash (admittedly one of the wealthier parts of Delhi) we were welcomed with an Indian band and offered marigold garlands to wear - a symbol for respect and honour. This was followed by a parade down the road with everyone dancing with locals and loosening up in this new city we’d found ourselves in.

We later visited the Lotus Temple - a beautiful architectural masterpiece for followers of the Baha’i faith. Like me, many of you probably haven’t heard of this religion. It is the practice of all religions and the belief that the day has come for humanity’s unification into one global society. It was interesting to see how positively this new religion was being received in India.

The next morning we took a 4 hour drive to the city Agra to visit the great Taj Mahal - a must for any first timer in India. For me it was an honour to visit this mausoleum that is home to the tomb Emperor Shah Jahan’s wife. We were told that the Taj was in fact built by Persian artisans rather than Indians for the fact that the muslim Mughal empire disliked Indian handcraft and design. But for me, that seemed like just another piece of conflict between muslims and hindus. The Taj itself is completely symmetrical - something the Emperor was very particular about. The irony is that when the Emperor died himself, he was buried next to his wife's coffin; making the tomb unsymmetrical. Whilst I was strolling around I noticed a few Indian women who were dressed in elaborate sarees and covered in jewellery. Us students looked a lot less impressive with our typical elephant pants and tied back hair. It made me realise what a privilege it was to be there.

Taj Mahal

The following day we woke up at the crack of dawn and took the Delhi metro to a small haveli in Old Delhi. I was told to sit in the all female carriage for formality. But after getting off, we were told by the guys that a woman had got onto their carriage and made a man give his seat to her at the click of her fingers. A haveli is basically a house with a courtyard where the whole family including cousins and aunties live together. We were lucky enough to have a sufi band called Midival Punditz play the most beautiful music for us. I must be cliche here, but it was the kind of music that really touched you. If there’s one this I’ve taken back from Delhi so far, it’s the passion. The people of this country are filled with it, whether it be passion for God, for music, for dance or for singing. 

Later we had a panel consisting of Sir Mark Tully and a representative from the Guardian. It was an intense debate about India’s economy and potential. On one side India was being slated for not reaching it’s potential and being tainted with corruption - policemen taking bribes and the media twisting stories. On the other hand, Tully, the optimist who saw India as a gateway to a brighter future. Since I have only been in India a week, I can only base my opinion on what I have experienced so far. It is clear that India has a serious poverty and overpopulation issue; I mean anyone could tell you that. But what you don't get to see from the media and pictures is how hard the people of this country work with what they have got - and there is a vast amount that do not have a lot.

Gurudwara Bangla Sahib

Purana Quila (Old Fort)

Ghandi Smriti

All in all, Delhi was very different to what I thought it would be. Mainly for the fact that it didn't feel like a capital city. There is still a lot of improvement to be made and I believe it is the people at the bottom who need to are going to make this change. 

Damini x